The First Layer Tells All! What to Watch Out For.
Video Length: 2 min, 46 sec
After I started brushing on the first layer of pigment, this video turned out to be a prime example of what to watch out for.
A big flaw appeared on this resin's rump.
When I matte sprayed the resin before pigment painting him, a piece of lint or some other debris must have got
caught in the matte
spray. The first layer tells all as I like to say and prooves if the prepping is done well or if more prepping work
*** If you see a speck or more of dark pigment on your first layer of pigment, STOP. ***
It is much easier to fix the
cause of the flaw now, then later. If possible, wipe off the pigment with a wet wipe, use 1000 grade sandpaper to
re-smooth the area and matte spray the model horse again. Use your fingers to 'feel' the smoothness of the horse and
make sure it isn't tiny air bubbles if you're working with a resin. On this resin, I easly felt debris on top of the primer.
Sometimes it happens no matter how careful one tries to be. Also, depending how bad the flaw is, you may have to spray
more primer on the
model horse and then, use sandpaper and then matte spray.
The ideal first layer of pigment will be a smooth solid color with no dark spots.
Painting With Earth Pigments (First Layer)
Video Length: 9 min, 30 sec
The main rules to follow when painting with pigments is:
1. Never touch the model horse where pigment has to be applied. Oils or other substance faintly on yoru fingers can rub off
on the model horse and the pigment will go dark and cause a bad flaw.
2. Always hold the horse on an area that does not need painting such as the tail. On this resin however, I choose to hold the horse mainly
by the lower front legs because tall sabino stockings are going to be painted there. If I was painting a solid color, I would try to hold him
with a soft paper towel as mininmally as possible.
3. Never try rubbing off pigment. If a bad flaw appears and you know the last layer was looking good, it's best to wipe off
all of the applied pigment, matte spray and try the next layer of pigment again.
4. If you don't want the flanks or other area darker and pigment lands there, blow the pigment off. Resist the urge to touch.
5. Don't press the pigment bush too hard. Rub lightly in small circle when painting the main body areas.
See Also: Flaxen Liver Chestnut Pigment Recipe
I don't remeber the exact name but it's a makeup bush set from Walmart. They are soft and I love the different size bushes on the ends.
They are also the only ones I've found that don't loose the brush hairs easily. I will find out the name the next time I pick up a new set.
They are getting hard to find.
Flaxen Mane (and Tail), Part 1
Video Length: 7 min, 40 sec
This tutorial shows how I detail the mane with earth pigments. The same steps can be used for the tail.
First base color the mane and tail solid with Americana Fawn, then matte spray.
The mane will be shaded in layers of pigment. With a small brush, use custom pigment 21 on the mane's deaper
shadowed mane parts, or shade varied streaks of this pigment to help contrast the mane.
Matte spray when finshed
then continue to part 2.
Flaxen Mane (and Tail), Part 2
Video Length: 4 min, 51 sec
In this final part of painting the mane, only apply the pigment to previous applies darker areas of the mane.
The lighter strands of mane (and tail) should stay lighter unless you need to change the overall look. The key to
a really prety mane and tail is contrast.... not too much and not too little.
Apply custom pigment 23 very sparingly. Try to tap most of the pigment off of the brush. This pigment should only
be placed here and there just to add a touch more color in the mane and tail. This color should also be more
towards the base of the mane (top edge).
Then with Burnt Umber, use this pigment to darken parts of the mane and top edge of the mane. Use your best judgement.
Matte spray when finshed.